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为醋举杯•当我们不再是小清新

重磅推荐 2017-09-19 12:49来源:北京联合出版公司 作者:犬(郭中荃)鸡(Seuk) 编辑:姚楠1

  【书摘】

  Life is Too Short for Expensive Wine

  人生苦短,不该浪费在昂贵的酒上

  While Chicken and Dog had a few days of down time staying on the top floor of a lovely old Bordeaux building with a terrace overlooking the roof tops of the houses and buildings around,Chicken began to read a little about wine. My wine experience only began about a dozen years ago when I started trying Australian wines in Singapore and then Bordeaux wines in Hong Kong and Shanghai. I generally took to people’s recommendations and believed in the adage that “life is too short for cheap wine”.

  This was a book that I picked up among walls of used books in a café in Taiwan a few months back. It was written by two writers who were obviously anti-Robert Parker,anti-Wine Spectator,and anti-expensive wines generally. Or so I thought.

  They seem to have methodically,blind and non-blind tasted wines to thousands of people from all walks of life,from those new to wine to wine experts,from high school students to law school professors. What they found generally was that in blind tastings most people favored cheaper wines and only sometimes wine experts favored the more expensive ones. In non-blind tastings,everyone liked wines that were more expensive. Possibly meaning you have to develop an expensive palate.

  I think there are no surprises here. There is much confusion between perception and reality and expectations play a big part. Seated in a beautiful hundred-year-old restaurant,with perfect service,feather light crystal stemware,the sommelier’s description of what he describes as a complex,elegant,aged for 20 years in their cellar,and very expensive; it could be white wine and most would still find it to be one of the best red wines they,ve had.(At one 3-star Michelin establishment in Belgium many years ago,I proclaimed that one of the wines from my pairing was corked and the sommelier went ahead even as to take everyone else’s wine away. It wasn’t corked and it was the distinctive earthiness that I now look for in Pinot Noirs,and usually only find in Gevery Chambertin ones. And actually,I recently did have a 25-year-old Rioja white wine that did look and taste like red wine.)

  It’s good to be confused like this sometimes,but maybe we should have less expectations and try to explore. And sometimes that expensive wine,might actually be really good,just as much as that smaller,unknown winery might surprise you. In Bordeaux,Frederic Gonet told us that we should explore the many lesser known chateaus for great wines,many which are not exported outside. That is where he finds interesting nectar. We all have our own individual tastes and we should look for it.

  So the motto “Life is too short for cheap wine” fits only the industry promoting wine and for people who are willing to let others decide what good wine should taste like. They are turning a blind eye to exploring what their preferences might be.

  Life is short. I want to explore. I want to try everything. I want to try 1 bottle of Chateau Angelus and 9 different cheaper ones from around the St. Emillion region rather than 10 bottles of what is considered by others to be one of the best. I did have an occasion with some Roosevelt Club friends while in Jiangyin City of China where 10 bottles of the Angelus were placed in front of me,along with a similar number of Opus Ones and Dom Perignions. Sadly,I think I did take a taste from each bottle,but I don’t remember how they tasted.

  I sometimes want to be like the German grandmother or Chinese businessman. They know what they want and don’t live by convention. They take their Riesling with sugar and red wine with Coke when they want to. Or the better analogy might be,would you rather drink DRC Romanee Conti everyday of your life or taste every single wine produced in Burgundy,or maybe a slice of every wine produced in the world.

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